No matter how far you follow the side roads and back alleys of SoothrвЂ™s menu, you will probably be led back to noodles. Lingwan builds her beef salad, or yum nuer, around remarkably flavorful braised beef it isnвЂ™t as loaded with fresh hot chiles as some other versions, but her use of husk cherries for their sweet-tart charge is inspired. Chicken, fried in the light and irresistible style of the city of Hat Yai, tastes of white pepper and heaping quantities of garlic. Her steamed jeeb dumplings are unusually fine, the shumai wrappers stuffed with a pork-and-shrimp filling thatвЂ™s crunchy with water chestnuts. Lingwan, who has cooked at Fish Cheeks in NoHo, and Sailors Thai in Sydney, Australia, now presides over a three-page menu, much of it devoted to things other than noodles. Watthanawongwat, for his part, had a meatball recipe borrowed from his familyвЂ™s sausage-making business in northeastern Thailand.ДЄfter this stripped-down concept was handed over to a chef, Nate Lingwan, the menu began to grow.

Banklouy in Sukothai, and wanted to serve tom yum the way they learned to eat it at home. The third owner, Kittiya Mokkarat, grew up with Ms. Soothr was first conceived as a simple shop selling a few varieties of Thai noodles, said Chidensee Watthanawongwat, another partner. Thailand, though, offers dozens of variations on the theme, including one from the central province of Sukothai that incorporates salty pink commas of dried shrimp. Sour and deeply aromatic, tom yum with shrimp is a takeout staple thatвЂ™s fairly uniform across the United States. The particular dry noodle soup I ate was a variation on tom yum. It figures heavily on the menu at Soothr, taking the dread out of my first bowl of soup that afternoon and helping lure me back for several more meals. This style is called, oxymoronically, dry noodle soup. The country has an ingeniously simple solution to the hot-soup-in-August problem: ladling the broth into a separate bowl, where it can cool while you eat everything else. Of course, summers in Thailand are no picnic, either. When the city seethes under temperatures in the 90s, thinking about a scalding bowl of soup sets off an internal battle of anticipation and fear that can make you feel like Alex in вЂњA Clockwork OrangeвЂќ after his reconditioning. Thai noodle soups are the restaurantвЂ™s specialty, and while summers in New York City are not kind to anybody, they are especially harsh if you happen to love noodle soups. It was a sweltering afternoon in August when I first came to Soothr, and I was wishing IвЂ™d visited several months earlier.

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